The textile sector is among the sectors with the highest environmental impact, in terms of raw material and water consumption and greenhouse gas emissions, as well as one of the main sources of microplastic dispersion during both production and use. A single European citizen consumes on average 11 kg/year of textiles, in addition to the 20-30% that is lost in the same industrial cycle (between 7 and 11 steps between companies and processes). It is estimated that only 5% is currently recovered as secondary raw material.
In particular, Fast Fashion is the main source of waste of natural goods, both for economic-cultural reasons and for the discontinuous, fragmented, dispersive, energy-consuming nature of its cycle: consumption of water and artificial chemicals, high employment of underpaid labour and large GHG emissions due to transport from all parts of the globe, between raw materials, semi-finished and finished products. However, fast fashion also has ample room for improvement in terms of second-life resource use, being a sector with high flexibility, creativity and skills.
The European Commission intends to promote circularity in textile processes through reuse, separate collection, sorting and recycling of textile products, and the Waste Framework Directive envisages mandatory separate collection of various fibres and materials from January 2025. The Commission is also considering the introduction of EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) schemes in textiles, which have proven to be an effective tool to improve the management of waste streams.
However, the looming problem is how to recycle, regenerate, reuse textile raw materials, in particular fibres:
– both from pre-consumer industrial activity (production that must already take into account end-of-life) and from post-consumer collection,
– of different origin, purpose, application and end-of-life and in any case already on the market in very significant quantities.
New technological solutions are needed in various cases, both mechanical and chemical, with the use of advanced robotic tools and artificial intelligence.
A rethink of the raw materials used and a new design approach are required, both in the conception of new products and in the formulation of second uses, even in sectors other than those of first use.
Objectives of the event
The conference, organised in cooperation with the Green Chemistry Association Bionet, is dedicated to the issues of recovery and reuse of textile fibres already in blends with uneven end-of-life, through mechanical processes and valuable applications in the two cycles
1. textiles clothing and furnishings
2. non-woven fabrics.
Another central theme of the conference will be the potential use of natural fibres, hemp in particular, to replace synthetic fibres.
The conference will be held in Milan on February 27, 2024.
Innovation Award
The conference will also be the occasion for the launch of the Innovation Award, promoted by CVB and Federcanapa and aimed at researchers, students from universities, textile and fashion schools, and companies. The Prize will consist of monetary compensation for the students and specific opportunities to publicise their work.
PROGRAMME
Coordinator Beppe Croce, President Federcanapa
9.20 Introductory greetings
9.30 Textile fibers meet academia and biotechnologies
Laura Cipolla e Antonino Natalello, Bicocca University
9.45 European strategy for the circular economy in textiles
Mattia Pellegrini*, Head of Unit ‘From Waste to Resources’, DG ENV
10.05 Fibre recovery and reuse issues
Marco Benedetti, Vice President Green Chemistry Bionet
10.25 Circular economy in fashion: the role of communication
Marco Ricchetti, CEO Blumine srl – adjunt professor SUPSI Lugano
10.45 The role of CNR support in the ecological transition of textile waste management
Alessandro Mei, CNR IIA
10.50 Coffee break
11.15 Towards solutions for fibers recycling & reuse
Amon Kirchel, Tech Director Recycling Atelier
11.30 M3P Platform and MultiLab, a digital and physical place where to assess products
recyclability and new technologies
Claudio D. Brugnoni, Multilab Director – CentroCot
11.45 From deep Sorting to Fibre Regeneration for quality R-Textiles
Pål Erik Haraldsen, NTG Norsk Tekstilgjenvinning
12.00 New solutions for mechanical recycling: defibering process
Claudio Zeloni, OMMI srl
12.15 Synthetic fibers recycling approach for circularity
Loris Maestri, Radici Group
12.30 Biotechnology for multilayer textile recycling
Alice Garau Aroffu, Coalchry Green srl*
12.45 Certifications against greenwashing
Paolo Foglia, Orienta
13.00 Innovation Award Announcement
Mauro Sampellegrini, Sistema Moda Italia
Sofia Mannelli, President Chimica Verde Bionet
13.20 Lunch Break
Innovative applications for R-Fibers – Cordinated by Marco Benedetti
14.30 The incoming technology for post-consume deep sorting
Silvia Gregorini, Picvisa
14.45 High quality fancy yarns from regenerated fibers
Filippo Comotto, DBT
15.00 HT applications on recycled fibers in nonwovens: graphene
Martina Barison, Kemitex srl
15.15 R-Fibers with natural resins for furniture & fashion
Giulia De Rossi, Nazena srl
15.30 R-Fibers for construction industry
Luca Querci, Cormatex
15.45 Discussion